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I took a break from costuming for myself to focus on school. I was also in the process of losing some weight, and it's always so difficult to sew for oneself when your measurements are fluctuating so. ;3 I have a couple new projects on the horizon, and will post pictures when I get to it!
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This walking suit will fit my natural form. I'm using the Walking Jacket pattern and the Beatrix Skirt pattern from Sense & Sensibility. I love these patterns for uncorseted wear! The skirt is a breeze to sew - I'm wearing a linen version with my Gibson Girl Blouse here - and I'm looking forward to doing the detailing on the jacket. I'll be using a black silk dupioni for my collar and CF contrast, and either black or dark purple trims for the design. Here's my fabric for both the jacket and the skirt. It's a 100% wool in a dark brown with gold, purple, and blue accents.  To keep the construction from being too modern, I've just pinked the raw edges of the seams and sewn a straight stitch about 1/8" from the edge. I attempted to use french and flat felled seams, but the wool did not lay right when it was sewn.  Next: lining for skirt to be cut (silk habotai) and assembled with wool, muslin of jacket for fitting
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Updating the list! c. 1911 Long Line Corset
http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/Textile-E
Victorian Walking Suit
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Some work-in-progress pictures of the corset which is coming along. Here's a view of my cover fabric ready to be basted to the linings.  One half sewn up and just prior to getting the flat felled seams done. I am using two layers of lining in addition to the coutil. My seams are mighty thick. . .  I've installed the front busk and finished flat felling. I'm not exactly enthusiastic with the inside, although the cover looks great. Because of the thick lining layers, there is some bubbling and shifting that's been going on despite my efforts at flatlining. My seams are so thick that they've almost become like boning in themselves. Although the corset looks acceptable from the outside, I'm just not happy with the overall construction. I may recut this side and sew the corset with only 2 layers total. My Edwardian S-curve corset is only two and is plenty supportive. If I do decide to recut, I have to order more coutil! I'm waiting for boning anyway, so what's a couple more days for fabric?  Next: finish other side of the corset, sew in the boning channels; waiting on boning and satin for binding, possible re-cut
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 Well, I've stored the fabric and pattern to make a 1914 dress for almost a year now, and decided a couple weeks ago that it had been quite long enough! I've been inwardly debating on whether I should make the dress for my natural form or if I should create a complete historical ensemble, and have chose to go with the latter. First thing's first - the corset! Feeling adventurous, I decided to adapt a pattern myself from Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh, and just finished finalizing my pattern yesterday. When I first learned about pattern scaling, the thought completely scared me and I formed the opinion that it would be impossible for me to do such a thing. However, after being forced to do this exercise in school, I found out it's not as frightening as it seems. Now, I've come to really appreciate the freedom in scaling patterns. It does take patience and learning, but the end results are worth it. Fabrics: silk/rayon embroidered coutil for the cover, heavyweight cotton denim for the interlining and lining Notes: After two muslin mockups, I made the final pattern on paper and cut my fashion fabrics. Last night I spent some time flat lining and basting the pieces together along the edges. Today I will finish flat lining and assemble the corset, which will include flat felled seams. After that, I'll be playing the waiting game as my boning was only just ordered last night. Here's all my pieces laying out and ready to go. This is just the lining fabric.  The lining and interlining fabrics flatlined and ready to be machine basted together.  Next: assemble corset, installing the boning, binding the edges, grommets
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I was able to complete this blouse in 2 days of sewing! I'm very pleased with how it turned out, and I enjoyed working with the linen more than I thought I would. Construction progress and finished garment at the cut below. Enjoy! :)
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 The lace inset version of this blouse is really stunning, so I got it into my mind that I wanted to do all the detailing work of this blouse by hand. I still have not decided if I am going to sew the seams by machine or not. The weave of the fabric is pretty open and it likes to unravel on me quickly, and I feel like the more I handle it the more it will end up looking like a dish rag! This is the first time I'm attempting hand sewing on a garment, and I'm sooooo slooooow.Materials: linen, antique cotton insertion lace Notes: I made a sample of the blouse and found it to be almost a tiny bit too short (I am 5'7") but I left the length of it as-is. I did lower the tie placement and gathers at the center back by an inch. I also had to lengthen the cuff by about an inch and a half! Good idea to take your forearm measurement beforehand and alter your pattern accordingly. I am making the blouse to fit my natural form (that's without a corset), and think it lends itself well to the modern figure. I cut out all the newly modified pattern pieces. For the yoke piece, you are instructed to cut out a rectangle and prepare the fabric details before cutting the actual piece. Here is my rectangle ready to go with their reference nearby. Mouse note: their lace and tuck placement diagram is not meant to be a pattern piece and is not to scale, which isn't mentioned in their directions. I mimicked their lace-3 tucks-lace pattern.  Detail of some tucks and lace already hand sewn on. I have drawn out the placement lines in the blue marker pen that washes out with water. I really have a love/hate relationship with the blue pen!  Here is the finished rectangle yoke piece with a paper underneath so you can see it better:  I then proceeded to apply the rest of the lace detailing by hand to the rest of the pattern pieces. Everything is ready for assembly now! Here is a picture of the front blouse with it's completed details.  Next step: assembling garment with french seams
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bouncy
hungry
anxious
lonely
accomplished
thoughtful